Saturday, September 02, 2006

Angkor update

The other day M and I visited Bantei Srei by tuk-tuk - about an hour from Siem Reap.  It is a temple that is raved about by the guidebooks, but which we did not love so much.  Not helped by the massive number of tour groups visiting at the same time as us, but it just seemed underwhelming compared to the other temples we visited.  Also, it seemed a little too well-restored (how much is original?)... The drive was great, though - highways, paddy fields, villages and a chance to observe life for Cambodians who do not exist for the tourist dollar.
 
After that we visited Preah Khan - which we both loved.  COmparatively deserted, it was vast and awe-inspiring as an ancient achievement.  It felt like it had retained its atmosphere as a city / monastery and was very tranquil.  An optical effect of the very long and symmetrical main passage blew M & I away and everything about it left a deep impression.  I look forward to posting some photos soon.
 
Our last afternoon in Siem Reap we revisited Angkor Wat and Bayon.  A couple more hours at Ankor Wat was great (and I was very proud of myself for making it back up to the top and even more impressed I made it down again).  The AW complex is so hue and impressive that it is hard to find the words to adequately describe its power.  Though much is left, so much is destroyed or badly damaged - it is fascinating to imagine what it must have looked like at its peak - but you can do no more than imagine.
 
Bayon just before dusk was fantastic.  Rain was falling lightly and we had virtually the whole huge temple to ourselves.  All the heads of Jayvarman VII (the greatest Cambodian king) staring down at me without a crowd of tourists to diffuse the energy meant it was a very magnetic experience.
 
Wednesday night we went to a shadow puppet and Khmer dancing show.  There's nothing I can say about the shadow puppet show other than that it was a total waste of time.  The dancing was sort-of cute, however.  The actual dancing was unimpressive, but watching the teenage dancers flirt with eachother and the band members was fun.
 
 

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