Haifa to the Sea of Galilee

Stayed last night in the Colony Hotel in the German colony – an old part of Haifa which was formerly (until WWII) a German community. A hundred year old building – originally built as a hotel and now restored. A very nice old building, but not perfect as a hotel.


Last night wandered around Haifa – a mix of Jewish, Christian and Muslim. A substantial Arab population, many of whom it appears are Christian.  Lots of cafes and street life.

First up this morning headed to Akko. An ancient port, now a mixed city of arabs and jews. It has the best-preserved crusader ruins. It is a walled city and was the crusader base back around the 12th century. It fell to the Muslims, who successfully defended it against Napoleon. It was an admistrative base for the Ottoman empire and a citadel was built over the crusader fort. The fort was only uncovered in the past 60 years, underneath more modern (ie. last few century) buildings.  There have been security issues over the years, but it is presently peaceful.

Walked through amazing ancient tunnels, dug by the crusaders to provide an avenue for escape.   Saw the huge and impressive crusader fort.  It hasn't changed much since I was here a few years ago - but nevertheless an amazing sight.

Visited a mosque – my first – in the old city of Akko. A very attractive old building. Some people were praying, but it was ok to visit as long as I did not step onto the prayer mat.

Watched a very amusing – and informative – audio/video presentation about Akko’s Turkish bathhouse.

Next drove to Rosh Hankirah. Beautiful caves and a massive white rock on the Lebanese border.

A cable car down to the caves. Another good informative video then inside. The caves have been formed over millennia by the water meeting the rock. We were standing at a low observation point watching the incredibly blue water and the waves washing against the rocks when a particularly enthusiastic wave came up and washed right over us. We were soaked! It was really fun (though totally unexpected – I had thought from my last time here that I would get no more than a few drops of water).

Walked up to the border – no photos allowed. Peered through the gates towards the UN stationed between the Israeli side and the Lebanese side. Our guide, who has fought in 5 wars for Israel, held a senior logistics role at the time of the first Lebanese war (ie. the early 80s) and passed through this border crossing many times. The only traffic now is UN officials. And apparently it was used to return the bodies of 3 soldiers captured and killed by Hezbollah.

Drove along the Northern Border Road towards Tsfat. The road follows the border, a little way inside Israel. From parts of the road one can see into Lebanon. There are many villages along the way – these are the villages and towns which have been subject to rocket attacks from Lebanon. The rockets can reach all the way to Haifa (where we spent last night) though more commonly they are directed at the towns closer to the border.

Arrived in Tsfat and had an awesome felafel pocket for lunch at a local felafel joint recommended by a taxi driver. Then headed to the old part of the city hoping to view some synagogues and etc; but unfortunately it was a Friday afternoon and everything was closing / closed up for the start of Shabbat.

Drove to Kibbutz Maagan, which has a holiday village/hotel where we are staying for the next couple of nights. The kibbutz is right on the Sea of Galilee and has many Israelis (of all religions staying). The poolside action was fascinating.