Travel update

On Friday evening we returned to the Western Wall for the start of Shabbat. Lots of singing, thousands of people - all dressed up, many Haredi (ultra-orthodox). An incredibly emotional experience being at the epicentre of judaism.

Saturday *everything* was shut, except in the Arab sections of Jerusalem. We walked around the Old City before entering at Damascus Gate and wandering around the Muslim quarter. So different to the Christian and Jewish sections - incredibly vibrant and colourful. Then we continued into East Jerusalem and had coffee in an Arab cafe, before going to the Rockefeller Museum of Antiquities. A great collection of objects dating back up to 100,000 years. Absolutely worth seeing with some beautiful statues, old skeletons, ceramics, glass, metalware and amazing old objects. We then walked as far as the Mount of Olives before it became a little too unfriendly. We jumped in a taxi and in 10 minutes were back standing outside the King David hotel. Sat in the sun in Yemin Moshe (the area where we're staying) then dinner in Ein Kerem (a village near Jerusalem) with the son of friends of my parents and his Israeli wife.

Today the Western Wall tunnels which were absolutely incredible. A voyage into Jerusalem at the time of the Second Temple and even earlier. The tunnels travel most of the way along the Western Wall (the Western retaining wall of the temple complex) and were dug out after 1967 - they are fascinating beyond description. Followed by the City of David (Jerusalem as conquered by David - it sits outside the Old City and is even older than it). Not as impressive as a tourist site. Then shopping in the Old City and a quick walk through the City Centre. Tomorrow the Holocaust memorial and more.

Guns

I'm getting used to the guns in Israel; actually it has been a lot easier than expected. Semi-automatic weapons are everywhere in Jerusalem. And they're not there just for effect - they are carried loaded, with extra clips on the belt. It's a little disconcerting (as an Australian) to look up and realise you're sitting next to a soldier taking a drink of water with his gun dangling and pointing straight at you. But you get used to it.

Today was a new experience, though. After our (fascinating - probably the best thing we've done so far) tour of the Western Wall Tunnels [they run right under the Western Wall starting from the Western Wall plaza through the Muslim Quarter, coming out in the Muslim Quarter] we were escorted through the Muslim Quarter back to the Plaza by 2 guards with handguns drawn.

Jerusalem and more

We are now in Jerusalem: I write this from the Old City where it is almost Shabbat. Earlier we went to the Western Wall, prayed and placed prayers into holes in the wall. It is very moving and filled with so many people. The fact that I could go there makes me very proud for reasons I won't go into in order to avoid being too political. The old city is intimidating still - although I'm sure I'd grow used to it in time; it's like a 2000 year old bazaar and full of Christians, Jews, Muslims, Armenians and all sorts of people from all over the world.

Earlier we went to the Israel Museum, which was very impressive. The Judaica and ethnography were fantastic, as was the art collection. The Dead Sea Scrolls and the 10th century bible were mind-blowing. Masada in 40 degree heat was hot. And moving and an amazing story and the fact that it exists at all is hard to comprehend.

We are staying in Yemin Moshe, the most exquisitely beautiful part of Jerusalem. The streets and the buildings are made of jerusalem stone and it is beyond description. It's a pedestrian-only area and is peaceful and beautifully kept. The apartment is ok.

Yesterday was mostly spent in the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve in blistering heat. Another amazing experience. Beautiful animals (i fell in love with the ibex'), oases, vistas and just indescribable. Swimming in the dead sea the previous day was painful. Slathering ourselves in dead sea mud was great and our skin is now silky smooth.

Food continues to be fantastic overall. Israeli breakfasts should be compulsory. The Ein Gedi Youth Hostel food is passable (just). The coffee is not.